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Encaustic Art

A group for anyone who loves encaustic art or who would like to learn about it.

Members: 225
Latest Activity: Apr 20

Information about this Group

Hi everyone who likes to play with fire and wax.
I will be adding videos and talking about how to use beeswax but if you have any expertise in this area of art please feel free to add vids or comments.

Discussion Forum

Add Your Work Here

Started by Mo Godbeer. Last reply by Danielle Evans Apr 5. 885 Replies

Videos to watch

Started by Mo Godbeer. Last reply by Janet McHaley Burns Apr 3. 94 Replies

Encaustic Image Transfer

Started by James Green. Last reply by James Green Feb 14. 7 Replies

Ventilation for the encaustic studio

Started by Linda Rutledge. Last reply by Linda Rutledge Jan 1, 2013. 10 Replies

Oil Paint on Encaustic

Started by Linda Virio. Last reply by Linda Virio Nov 13, 2012. 11 Replies

Comment Wall

Thanks for joining LMM. I am sure you will find something here to help you on your creative journey. To get you started please have a look at the site's guidelines (this will give you information about how I run things around here). You will also find lots of other useful information as well. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to use the FEEDBACK button located on the left hand side of the page and I will respond as quickly as I can.
Take your passion and make it happen!
Gary Reef (Network Creator)

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Comment by Frank Folino, OFM on June 27, 2012 at 1:50pm
Well, I must admit I've done that Mo(s), and whether it will stand the test of time, I don't know. It seems safe so far, nothing has peeled off yet.
Comment by Paula Blackwell on June 26, 2012 at 12:33pm

Wax will stop the oxidization process. I like to do a small sample painting if I'm not sure of its stability. The acid test being, to pop it into the freezer over night. No cracks, no bubbles or blisters, then its good to go.

Comment by Diana on June 26, 2012 at 12:08pm

yep yep agreed. and yeah, i don't worry much about archival quality.

Comment by Michael Billie on June 24, 2012 at 4:41am

She said as long as air and moisture are in contact the rusting it's going to continue.

I've been using rust in my work for years. They're sealed with medium and they seem to be holding up without any further rusting.

Comment by Diana on June 24, 2012 at 3:31am

oh I see--  heating up metal objects to get their shape on the paper.

i have another question (since I'm reading about rusting paper and fabric) -- i am reading that even if you neutralize your paper/fabric (with a baking soda mixture), that the rust will continue, and that the substrate will not be archival, because even if you do neutralize, you would have to do it again within a year, or the rust would continue to spread. did she address that question?  thanks

Comment by Paula Blackwell on June 24, 2012 at 3:16am

"Junk Pile" I love it Mo. Artists see potential in everything and will hunt down the "next", object, tool, scrap,pigment or goop  for weeks, if necessary, until we find it. It's like that saying,"He who dies with the most toys wins"

Comment by Mo Godbeer on June 23, 2012 at 6:38pm

I will do a piece on my conference experience once my feet hit the ground again. Off to the north for 2 wks of teaching, then home again and then to Cairns for another week. Busy bee I am.

Comment by Michael Billie on June 23, 2012 at 4:54pm

She didn't use any woodburning tools. She heated up the metal with a blowtorch and placed it on paper. She had a variety of metal objects that she uses to brand from scrap metal to nuts and bolts. This was all done outside since it produces a lot of smoke.

Comment by Diana on June 23, 2012 at 4:21pm
Michael... Did she use th r&f woodburning tool with the tip that looks like a cute little iron?? Ans did she brand /burn her fabric or the medium or paper or all three?
Comment by Paula Blackwell on June 23, 2012 at 5:39am

Thanks Mo- much appreciated, where are the links to said videos?

 

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HERE ARE 2 LINKS to TWO of my youtube videos talking and demonstrating about this amazing product:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIc02QBihJQ&feature=share&list=UUM6N5AOYoyg6eAkbcDWpNFg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zAPZn5TEyM&list=UUM6N5AOYoyg6eAkbcDWpNFg&index=41

So once i have my image printed onto transparency film, I take my Ezscreen silk screen which has been coated in light sensitive emulsion (These sheets come pre-coated so they are ready to use). Place it onto a black board, then place the transparency image on top (this part needs to be done in a dark room with no direct sunlight). I take it outside and expose it for 1 minute and 40 seconds (but time varies depending on time of day and strength of sunlight). After i have exposed the image i place it into a tub of water for around 5 - 8 minutes. Then i rinse the screen out under fast running water until the unexposed area (the black) washes away. I then expose the screen to the sun for a further 20mins to completely harden the light sensitive emulsion. 

And this is the completed screen ready for printing.  I simply use an old credit card to spread the ink over the screen making sure i do one complete full stroke across the screen (holding the credit card at a 45 degree angle). I immediately wash the screen out under fast flowing water and pat dry. I use fabric screen printing ink which washes out in water (which makes the process easy).

I love this product, their website is http://ezscreenprint.com/ (for full instructions and details on how to purchase this awesome product).

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