I apologise if this question is in the wrong place or has already been discussed elsewhere.
I've never worked with resin before and I am not finding much information on the net about which deep casting moulds for inclusion are the correct ones to use for resin.
The one that I bought is called Crystal clear which needs 1 g of catalyst for every 50g of resin.
I have seen some that are made of transparent plastic and others that are made of silicone rubber. I have some sturdy plastic forms rescued from toy packaging and wondered if those could be used or is there a specific plastic that needs to be used with resin? My concern is that it will stick to the plastic mould or the heat from the mixture will melt it. Are there other things that can be used?
Can anyone offer any tips,advice and specific moulds?
I have also seen artists cover their paintings in resin. What are the benefits of doing this,does it yellow over time and what do you with the excess resin that pours off?
Thank you so much. That is all VERY helpful.
I have still have not attempted to try out resin due to lack of time but I am ready ,now. I'll start with a small silicone mould and see how that goes since I don't really have the correct resin for deep casting.
I wonder if pure pigment would disolve in resin ,too?
Has anyone tried adding multiple layers of resin over their work (or one thick layer), to get the effect of really thick glass?
one thick layer will flood over it, just drip off the edges and thin itself out (unless it's like a 'tub' and it has 'walls' around the piece, to keep the liquidy resin in a 'pool').
I'd do it in 2-3 thin layers. each one will 'stay put' till fully dry and build up the thickness.
also, if the measurments of the 2 parts will not be perfectly even in the 1st layer - you can always cover it by a second layer, and correct it (the 'never drying' state it might be stuck on).
also, in huge mixtures, I find, it's harder to get it (the measurment of the 2 parts) 'just right', and then u just lose and waste too much, and need to scrape it off, and try to save it with a new mixture.
Doing 2 or layers 3 layers sounds like a more practical way to build up thickness .
My question came from the idea that if you could incase your work to stop the flooding and pour one,thick layer. Perhaps this is something to try on a small piece of work since you pointed out the problems of mixing large quantities at once and creating an even first layer.
The benefits are numerous...to protect their paintings, to give them a glossy appearance and a lens effect to bring the colours to life. Yellowing is only a problem with resins that are not UV stabilised.
If you use a proper UV stable material such as this one :
..then you wont have a problem with UV degradation.
Excess resin that pours off to create a waterfall ( or teardrop ) effect is becoming increasingly popular. The cured resin shards can be salvaged from plastic sheeting lined on your floor ( or work table ) and re-used to create stunning effects on their own. I can email you photos of such work.
hey, Eli -
that's news to me, that u can re-use cured resin, (unless u mean as hard as they are - just use the pieces for added texture in other works). I'd love to see the images of such work u mentioned. can u please leave a link to it, here or on my page?
a big thank you! :-)
I cant link to it since it is not on our website...but I can email photos to you if you like.
Just drop me a message to email@example.com
I would very much like to see the images and I will drop you an email.
Say one used a non UV stabilised resin, how long would it take for yellowing to occur and are there products that exist to prevent the UV degradation?