I apologise if this question is in the wrong place or has already been discussed elsewhere.
I've never worked with resin before and I am not finding much information on the net about which deep casting moulds for inclusion are the correct ones to use for resin.
The one that I bought is called Crystal clear which needs 1 g of catalyst for every 50g of resin.
I have seen some that are made of transparent plastic and others that are made of silicone rubber. I have some sturdy plastic forms rescued from toy packaging and wondered if those could be used or is there a specific plastic that needs to be used with resin? My concern is that it will stick to the plastic mould or the heat from the mixture will melt it. Are there other things that can be used?
Can anyone offer any tips,advice and specific moulds?
I have also seen artists cover their paintings in resin. What are the benefits of doing this,does it yellow over time and what do you with the excess resin that pours off?
Hi Palma, Ihaven't tried using acrylic as a colourant, can't see shy it wouldn't work but as Lea said it will be very opaque, the oil paints add a bit of colour but you can still keep some translucency. I've never tried using ink - I have a bunch of colourants specific to resin (bought them before i realised there were cheaper ways) so I mostly use them. I use mostly clear anyway.
Lea the paper is very flexible indeed, absoultely no cracking, I've stitched it on ther sewing machine!!!
All part of the service Lea - glad you're having fun!
You would need to be careful with the oil paint. If you have a look at Envirotex's website, they warn that oil can stop the two compounds from mixing properly. I found this one out the hard way when I wanted to seal the desktop that me and my son painted. Someone at Bunnings gave me the wrong advice. I wanted to seal the painting first so that it wouldn't lift or react to the resin and they recomended a spray sealer. The only problem was that it was oil-based and it caused the resin to pool and not spread smoothly. I have a surface that looks like it has been splashed with water and has all these large droplets all over it. (In this case it wasn't too bad as it kind of suited the theme of the painting underneath, and my son can still use it as a desk).
As long as you mix the components adequately first ( with epoxies it's 2-3 mins ) no outside influence ( oil, pigments, sealers etc ) will affect the curing cycle of epoxy as it happens by internal chemical reaction.
The EnviroTex Lite may be a p.u compound which has an iso-cyanate hardener and is temperamental to outside influences...it is affected by solvents and silicones present in the oil.
However your effect may have been dispersion caused by the heavier ( and more dense ) oil moving the lighter resin away from remaining in an even layer. There are tricks to overcome this effect.
I tried both oil and acrylic in my resin colouring, and the diferrence I noticed is that the acrylic tends to be more opaque and dull, while the oil tends to be more transluscent and doesn't lose the glossy finish. (I use both, depending on my intended end result). In both cases very small amounts of paint are needed, but ensure a thorough mix, (unless your intended end result is more 'patchy' and 'marbled' looking). Both have a long lasting quality, and keep the original colour better and for longer than, say, food colouring that is not made for long lasting artistic purpose.
oh, and about inks: I think alcohol based inks would work well and mix well with it. they will also be very transluscent, so if you want a 'block' colour - i think your best bet would be acrylic.
Here's one video that shows only going to the edges of the panel.
Here's another showing the sides with resin also. Seems much easier to let the resin cover the sides too.
This one is poured and then the sides painted with the resin. There was one done like Lea's but she already explained her process.
I will be trying it very soon,Lea
I'll start with a wee crafty item first to see how I cope with the mixing and bubbles.
oh god, i haven't used resin since college. basically in the 60's and 70's artists experimented with resin for a coating ... created a highly glossy and protective coating but also needed to be on a rigid painting ... died out for a while, glad to see it came back ... only issue you need to worry about is the panel you put it on warping ... it will crack the resin. other than that ... most resins today are a lot better than 30 years ago so the yellowing issues of the past are mostly gone. Now ... I should note that resin will bind to oil paints much better than acrylics or the such. also remember that high gloss is not always a good thing ... so the more details you have ... the more it can get washed out by a reflection of the light.
Love using 2 part apoxy resin to coat a painting. It totally transforms the artwork and gives it a rich, professional look. It not only brings out the colours more than normal gloss coating would but it also brings a 3D quality to the work as it encapsulates any texture that is there. BUT, there are definately tricks to using it, so be sure to watch the yt vids. As for run off, I like to resin the sides as well. You just have to pour enough on so that it swells over the sides and you swipe it with a palette knife. You have to manage that part though while it dries and continues to run off. Just keep gently clearing off the excessive drips that form hanging off the bottom of the edges (for about the first hour). So far the resins I have tried are the types found in hardware stores to coat bar tops. One coat of resin is equivalent to 50 coats of regular varnish finish. The only time that it yellowed on me is when I created a framed barrier around the sides and put on too thick of a coat. Better to do one coat at a time (if you want extra thick that is). But really all you need is one good coat. Its better to have run off than not enough to coat the piece. Otherwise you will end up with empty holes.
I love the look of resin, and Ive done some serious research on it. As mentioned a few time here, my concern too, was the yellowing. I havent done a lot of this, but took a class recently on concrete countertops in which the final step is mix and pour the resin.
So between that and my googling here is the input I've compiled on the subject.
1. Its resin, hence an amber, it will yellow. One comment I remember after a long post about resin and art, was 'its not a fine art' material.
2. Its a 2 part, mixed together, dont worry about bubbles, mix it like crazy. You want ALL of it blended, use disposable cups, and scrape sides, mix, mix, mix.
Any non mixed area wont cure (wont harden) and would remain forever sticky. Use rubber gloves.
4. Level your surface, any slight tipping will have most the resin pour off the side. That being said part of the process is that resin will pour off the side. Leveling will keep most on.
The better you clean drips the less work sanding them off the back later. Secure art, if its light weight, moving thick resin around may move art.
Place plastic under your art to catch the drippings (NOTE: collect the dripping after they've dried, they dry and make cool textures, you can collage it on other art)
Pour to the center and don't rush the resin to the edge, work it. The fast you push it to the edge the more will pour off. Take you time, but try to do it in about 5-10 minutes.
5. for bubbles get a propane bottle and lighter top. It screws right on the small tank (for bbqs) it click lights it and your ready to go.
PIC from google: http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/07/07/ts3...
graze over the surface and watch the bubble pop. do it 2 or 3 time over 10-15 minutes. after 20 minutes or so leave it alone and let the resin cure.
big thing: DUST. Put a box or something over the top and dont look until its cured.
Try not to work in a dusty, windy area or I suppose even under an AC vent.
6. Mixed with pigment or metal powder, is the only real effective way not to have it yellow. Its mostly a UV (sunlight) chemical reaction over time. How long depends on exposure. No !!!! car polish and sunscreen doesnt work. I thought of that. Mixing in pigments does defeat the purpose for us artists.
7. There is something called polysparic (or something like that) non resinous. BUT too expensive. Thats as close as I got to a resin solution.
8. My solution: My compressor, HVLP sprayer and automotive car clear. Havent tried it yet, but have you ever seen a good car paint job go yellow????? You can even wax and polish it. :)
Good luck folks. And read comments from long time resin users on the yellowing, I dont have anything older than 3-4 month to refer to.
Thanks, so much,Greg!
Those are very useful tips,indeed.
It did cross my mind that insects could fly into the resin whilst it's curing especially with the summer approaching . Placing a box over your work in an excellent idea.
Thanks for sharing :)
Great info' Greg. I assume you've got all the breathing gear and stuff if you've got a car spraying set up so that might be a great way to do large pieces.
Just a word of caution - don't go too nuts with the propane torch for two reasons; it will set up very quickly (which might be what you want for a flat surface I guess), so quickly in fact, that bubbles in a deep cast don't get time to escape before a skin starts to form on the outside (yes, painful experience taught me that one!) and you can actually blow dust onto the surface with the torch; not a problem if it's combustable fluff but if you live in a dusty, sandy area like me you'll get indestructable dust on the surface.
I use an old biscuit tin over the work as it's less likely to have collected fluff and dust than a cardboard box and is easily wiped down before I use it.
I'm learning so much from this, thanks everyone, especially you Palma for bringing it up!