Epoxy Resin
I apologise if this question is in the wrong place or has already been discussed elsewhere.
I've never worked with resin before and I am not finding much information on the net about which deep casting moulds for inclusion are the correct ones to use for resin.
The one that I bought is called Crystal clear which needs 1 g of catalyst for every 50g of resin.
I have seen some that are made of transparent plastic and others that are made of silicone rubber. I have some sturdy plastic forms rescued from toy packaging and wondered if those could be used or is there a specific plastic that needs to be used with resin? My concern is that it will stick to the plastic mould or the heat from the mixture will melt it. Are there other things that can be used?
Can anyone offer any tips,advice and specific moulds?
I have also seen artists cover their paintings in resin. What are the benefits of doing this,does it yellow over time and what do you with the excess resin that pours off?
Thanks
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Greg on -
thanks, yes just setting up, but have the full vapor respirator mask, even the crazy scientist full zip spray suit w hood. the cheapo from homedepot.
thanks for info on resin. good to know. ive only done a few fairly thin pours to date.
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Permalink Reply by Greg on
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oh yeah just thinking. on one of my sample boards i did, took a double pour. mica flakes were embedded into the resin on the first pour. let dry, sand (because some of the mica flakes stuck up out of the resin), and did another pour.
might help you if you did 2 pours. if the bubble are a problem. you would probably skip the sanding part.
G
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Permalink Reply by Greg on
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Off topic ref. the resin, but found this again, an australian artist using hvlp sprayer / compressor and automotive clear.
http://youtu.be/HcL-bLCExj0
http://youtu.be/iE9CuTBDJUc
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Permalink Reply by Jules Pilgrim on -
I'm going to check this out tomorrow - should be interesting1
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Permalink Reply by Deb Godley on -
Hey Guys!!
Ive been using ICE resin for about 2 years now. I use it mostly to make jewellery pieces/or floating pieces in it inside a framework.
Ive used it to cover artworks too- its self levelling, and non yellowing because its also jewellers' grade.Bubbles are easily removed by a quick wave of a heat gun across the surface. Easy as falling off a log.
I think the idea of protecting your work without the expense of glass/framing is a nice way to go- plus i love the illusion of entrapment and floating that it gives a work.And it makes the surface as shiny as glass!!!
here is a link to a jewellery tutorial i watched way back in the start-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AJ4vIptOQA
If you're in Australia- you can buy it from my buddy Jen Crossleys' shop A mark In Time-she is an amazing assemblage and jewellery artist and teacher.
me for one?? i like it..I like it a lot!! LOL..
I have some polyester resin sitting in the cupboard to try too- its a whole lot whiffier, but I plan on having a bash at moulding.Debxxoo
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Permalink Reply by Jules Pilgrim on
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Deb, just watch out for the polyester resin - I read that it's extremely toxic! I'm dying to try ice resin because i hear it's reeeeally good but am working my way through my current stock first.
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Permalink Reply by Mike Tann on -
Palma I use it on some of my artworks but have never used it as and encapsulating resin but I would think it is easy to use to encapsulate things. It takes over night to go off and is best left longer to make sure it is relay hard. You don't seem to get any heat when it goes off which is good and it is difficult to detect ant fumes but it can make you feel a bit strange if you spend a long time with your head over it.
I have used it both on canvas and wood backed paintings and it can be a bit difficult to get it where you want it and usual takes more that you think to get a good level all over. It does make colours pop though. I know this doesn't help you much but at lest you know its easy to use.
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Permalink Reply by Eli-Chem Resins on -
Hi Palma, I am a formulator and supplier of such a resin that you describe.
Generally we would recommend Bispehenol epoxies for both your applications.
The Crystal clear you speak looks like it is a a Polyester resin...this we can ascertain from the small catalyst ratio...generally clear polyesters are not UV stable ( they will yellow quite quickly ), they tend to cure very hard and brittle, and have high exotherm and shrinkage / crazing on cure.
An accelerated, UV stabilised epoxy is used more often in covering artwork ( paintings, scultures, collages etc ), and an un-accelerated material is best for deep castings.
This is because deep castings ( embedding objects ) demand more resin mass to be mixed at a time, therefore a slow-setting resin is better ( gives more working time, more bubble-removal time and also avoids exotherm buildup ( and the resulting shrinkage on cure ). Any thermoplastic mould or container can be used ( ABS, acrylic, HDPE etc ).
Lots of info, photos and video can be seen here : www.elichem.co.uk
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Permalink Reply by Palma Rea on -
HI Eli-Chem
Thank you so much for providing us with this the information.
It was very helpful :)
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Permalink Reply by Dalia Bar-Dror on -
Hi, Palma,
from my experience, silicone moulds are the best: they are long lasting and flexible, and u can press them with your fingers, to release the cast. (The rigid ones may crack/break or melt and get distorted with the warmth of the curing resin, and might not be useful again, so after one bad attempt I stopped using them. Also, the silicone ones can endure the warmth that occures with the resin curing, without damaging it, or at least not for quite a while before u need to make a new mould.
to avoid sticking to the mould and for easy release, u can brush a light layer of vaseline into all the crevices of the mould before pouring the resin in.
the manufacturers of the crystal clear resin claim it won't yellow with time - so we have to trust them and hope for the best...
At the moment it's the only 'true clear' one I know of, and it's relatively new, so it's hard to tell how it will behave in 10 years or more.Personally I never covered my paintings with resin, but those who do - say these are the benefits: it's cheaper, lighter and safer than glass when framing it. it also gives a smooth shiny glossy finish and protection to the art piece, and therefore can be framed without glass. (less chance of brekage in shipping).
and about the excess: personally I don't pour all my mixture at once, to avoid 'overflow' on the piece. (of course u need to make sure u have enough mixture made in advance, so u won't be stuck half way through without enough resin, but I pour it gradually, and add more as needed. I'd rather have the excess left in the mixing pot and then thrown away, than not having enough, or having too much on the piece itself).
hope that was helpful. I'd like to see the finished results.
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